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Chef Henry Harris on Dordogne, France

Chef Henry Harris on Dordogne, France

March 26
20:17 2018

Throughout a career spent cooking French food, I’ve consistently visited friends in Dordogne. I adore its rolling hills, woods and rivers punctuated by towns blessed with great markets, butchers, bakers and wine shops.

— In the southern part of Dordogne is the medieval town of Issigeac. On Sunday mornings, it has market runs through the narrow streets. Farmers and small producers set out magret de canard and duck charcuterie, cheeses and canelés (round cakes soaked in rum), alongside stalls from butchers and vegetable growers. On a Thursday night, the town square fills with food stalls for its marché nocturne, featuring treats such as moules frites with Roquefort, foie gras on toast, roast meats and sausages. Tables are crammed with families and friends.

— Further east along the Dordogne river is Lalinde, a small town that has one of my favourite markets on a Thursday, featuring all you need to take back to your kitchen. Seek out Boulangerie Ulrich Jean-Luc, with great baguettes and some lovely tarts, both savoury and sweet.

Issigeac © Alamy

— Five or six miles inland is Ferme Auberge de Rebeyrotte. A farmhouse restaurant near the hamlet of Pressignac-Vicq, it has its very own grass airstrip. It’s all about duck here. For €32, you get an aperitif, foie gras canapés, garlic soup, foie gras terrine, roast magret de canard, salad, cheese and pud, all served with Bergerac wines. It is a gem.

— East of Lalinde is Trémolat, where you can rent a canoe and spend four lazy hours on the river. For dinner in Trémolat, try Le Bistrot de la Place for first-class bistro cooking.

Henry Harris is chef-director of three London pubs, The Coach, Three Cranes and Hero of Maida;

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