World Places and News

Restaurateur Z He on Guangzhou

Restaurateur Z He on Guangzhou

August 04
14:42 2018

There is a saying in Cantonese: “If you are near the mountains, you eat what the mountains offer, and if you are near the sea, you rely on water to eat.” The subtropical city of Guangzhou is on the verge of the ocean, surrounded by some of the most fertile land in the region, which means it has a great variety of ingredients and flavours.

— Get up early and head to locals’ favourite Chan Tim Kee, on Baohua Road, for their much-loved breakfast staple — a steamy hot bowl of rice congee, or porridge (below). Chan Tim Kee is a 30-year-old institution; over the years there have been just three items on the menu: Sampan congee (traditionally topped with seafood), steamed roll noodle with house soy, and fish-skin salad, perhaps their most sought-after snack.

© Jomwaschara Komvorn/Alamy Stock Photo

— After a stroll under the lush banyan trees, try Tao Tao Ju on Dishifu Road for some dim sum. Must-have options include: glorious haw hu mai, char siu and lau sa bao: succulent braised chicken feet, chilli pepper tripe and pig’s trotter stew. Finish with flaky durian puff for dessert.

— For exceptional wonton noodles, Jian Ji Noodle House on Changshou East Road is your best bet. The signature springiness of the noodle creates a delightful contrast to the silky wonton skin. One bite of the wonton and you’ll see the light pink prawn meat mingling with the pork mince; all submerged in a savoury flounder broth.

— The next stop is for my sweet tooth. Renxin Shuangpinai on Dong Chuan Road specialises in a double-skin milk custard. It is steamed, then chilled, and its sweet taste is subtle, creamy and refreshing.

Z He is the co-founder of Tea Room, Pleasant Lady and Bun House in Soho, London

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